Running the Berlin Marathon

Seeing the Berlin Marathon being run yesterday for 2009 reminded me of last year's event which I never did get around to blogging about.

When J sets her mind to do something, it's often with a single-minded focus that's to be admired. A few years ago, she had run the Berlin Marathon for the first time, and decided that the 35th event in 2008 was time to do it again.

She and her business partner J-T trained for months before the actual day.  Following a rigid training program given to them by a mutual friend who was into training sportspeople, they set out to complete their daily schedule.  It was great to see them compare notes and times and encouraging each other as the weeks and months went by, and the marathon date drew closer.

In August 2008, J's training received a setback.  Playing in a women's football tournament, she dived onto the deck to head a ball into the goal, and landed on her left hand - breaking the little finger in 2 places.  When she does something, she does it well!

The cast was on for a month

Undeterred, she kept up with the training as best as she could, and in September last year, it was time to put it to the test.

The first thing we had to do was go and pick up their race numbers.   On the Friday evening, we piled into the car and headed out to the Berlin Expo grounds.  I have never seen so many people try to get into one pavilion!  It was a bit shambolic, as there was only one door through which to enter and exit, and we all felt like salmon trying to head upstream!

Trying to get into the hall to collect race numbers and info packs

Once inside, it was a bit more organised.  Sports companies had displays on the ground floor, and on the mezzanine, once up the stairs, it was turn left to collect your number if you were female, and to the right if you were male.

Numbers and info packs collected, we beat a hasty retreat to the car.

On Sunday morning, we were up before the sun and on the metro to the Brandenburg Gate where the marathon was to begin and end.  Meeting J-T and his cousin K, there were small signs of nervousness as strategies were discussed before walking to the start line.

I was to meet J at 2 locations to give her food and drink.  At the first, I missed her, but luckily saw J-T who told me that she was ahead of him.  Diving back onto the train, I headed to our next rendezvous at the 32km mark, where luckily I managed to see her this time.  She was not very amused that we had missed the first stop, but recovered quickly as the food and coca cola quickly brought up her energy levels.

Back at the Brandenburg gate, I first met J who finished ahead of the 2 guys and was feeling pretty pleased with herself - as she should!

Rightly happy, tired and with finisher medals around their necks!

J-T and K came in about 20 mins and 45 mins behind her, and there was time for a quick victory photo and to pick up the time printouts before heading home to hot baths and pasta carbo-loading!

The official paper showing position in the field as well as split distance times

Fervent Catalonian Pride

Elsewhere in the world, the date 9/11 conjures up images of collapsing tall buildings and death. In Catalonia/Catalunya/Cataluña*, 11/9 is La Diada Nacional de Catalonia - the National Day of Catalonia, a public holiday and a memorial to another deadly September 11, almost 3 centuries ago.

In 1714 on this day, the Siege of Barcelona was lost by the home side during the War of the Spanish Succession. The laws and rights to the region held by the Crowns of Catalonia and Aragón were abolished by the Bourbon monarchy, and Catalonia was pulled kicking and screaming to be under Spanish rule. To this day, it's not to everyone's liking! Catalonia uses National Day to commemorate their history and fallen heroes - and to voice their dissent to the powerhouse based in Madrid.

I was excited, as it was to be the first national day that I will experience in this region. With J away in Berlin, I made my way to the Parc de la Ciutadella where the official ceremony was to take place. I was handed a progamme for the event, and at all the gates, there were large maps and the event programme printed on canvas for all to see.

Click on the images to enlarge them

Large maps and the event programme stationed at the gates

If people arrived early enough, (like me!), they scored one of the official programmes

The ceremonial area filled up quickly as seats were grabbed by those who arrived earlier than those who had to stand. Although I could have grabbed a seat, I elected to stand, as I thought that this would give me the freedom to move around and grab photos from different locations. This notion was quickly scotched by the 100 deep crowd that formed behind my position on the barrier located behind the VIP seating, and which effectively fenced me in on all sides. Oh well, I have learned better for next year!

Just after 11:30am, the dignitaries and invited guests took their seats on stage, accompanied by 3 members of Mossos d'Esquadra (English equivalent would be Troopers, although literal translation would be "Squad Lads") who are standing at the rear in their full dress uniform.

VIPs and dignitaries onstage. At the front in the white hat is actress Montserrat Carulla, who compered the event

The Mossos d'Esquadra has a long history beginning in the 1700s. Today, they are a civilian force and have replaced Spain's Policia Nacional and Guardia Civil within Catalonia, as well as assuming full responsibility within Barcelona. (I think that I'll have to do a separate blog post on the Mossos, as it's an interesting story.) The official Mossos d'Esquadra ceremonial troop marched in, and stood under the bare flagpole.

A representation of Mossos D'Esquadra

Their chief received the folded Catalonian flag from the President of the Catalonia Generalitat, José Montilla Aguilera.

The Mossos chief carries the folded flag

The flag (La Senyera) was raised, and managed to flutter a couple of times in the small breeze which came through to cool us as we watched under the hot sun.

La Senyera - the 4 red stripes represent 4 Spanish autonomous communities: Catalonia, Aragón, the Balearic Islands and Valencia

The official ceremony was a mix of songs, dances, poems and readings performed by a variety of artists. Controversially, an Israeli singer, Noa (real name Achinoam Nini) was asked to sing. When she appeared on stage, accompanied by the Arab Orchestra of Barcelona, a large group of pro-Palestine demonstrators stood up, turned their backs to the stage and held up placards and keffiyehs.

The protesters for Palestine with their backs to the stage

They received a very hostile reception from the rest of the crowd who stood to applaud Noa and the Arab Orchestra as they gave a powerful rendition of El Cant dels Ocells (Song of Birds). It appears that artists can find commonality in their craft which bridges any political differences that their countries might have.

Noa accompanied by the Arab Orchestra of Barcelona

The Arab Orchestra left the stage, and Noa, together with her partner and guitarist Gil Dor remained. She first spoke in Catalan and then sang a song, also translated into Catalan called Beautiful that Way - and she did sing it beautifully.

Noa sings in Catalan accompanied by guitarist and partner, Gil Dor

There was a large press contingent to record the proceedings.

A bit of money tied up in that photographic gear - there wasn't a lens under 200mm!

Other artists included guitarist Peret and Llibert Fortuny, a brass ensemble.

Peret at front left

Llibert Fortuny

Once the ceremony was over, I walked across to Arc de Triomp where there was a large family festival area set up in the square between the arch and the Ciutadella Park. There were lots of challenging puzzles and games for the kids to do, live music and stalls set up which were selling Catalonian clothing and flags, as well as a few booths asking people to support the cause for an independent Catalonia - separate from the rest of Spain.

Fiesta at Arc de Triomp

A lot of people and buildings sported La Senyera (the official flag of Catalonia) as well as La Senyera Estelada which is a protest flag calling for Catalonia to be a separate nation. I have assembled a slideshow of some of these photos:

Walking away from the Arc de Triomp, I wandered through the Born neighbourhood and headed for the Santa Maria del Mar cathedral. On the way, I saw many posters promoting events and polls for voting Catalonia to be independent.

Long live the revolution!

On the seaward side of the cathedral lies Fossar de les Moreres - a memorial square which lies atop a burial ground where Siege of Barcelona defenders are buried. There were lots of floral wreaths laid at the base of the monument, whose steel arch bears an eternal flame burning at the top.

The memorial at Fossar de les Moreres, and on the wall behind it is inscribed a poem (titled Fossar de les Moreres) by Frederic Soler

The inscription on the arch is dedicated to those who fell in the battle.

"To those who died defending the rights and constitutions of Catalonia in the Siege of Barcelona 1713-1714"

At Plaça de Sant Jaume is the Palau de la Generalitat which is the seat of the Catalan presidency and government.

Palau de la Generalitat

I had obviously missed a demonstration outside the building, as there was a crowd of people just dispersing, but it appeared as if everything had been peaceful. The door to the palace was heavily guarded with members of the Mossos d'Esquadra - not in ceremonial dress, but dressed for trouble. I have no doubt that these guys had formidable back-up in the numerous squad vans which were parked in the alleyways. These guys take no prisoners!

The Mossos - the Lads!

By now I had been out and about for almost 7 hours. My feet were aching, as well as my neck from the weight of my camera. I walked back to the nearest metro station to catch the train home, pausing to chuckle at the pigeons resting anywhere that they could on the old Roman city walls and to gaze at the Pastis de la Diada (Cakes of the Day) in a bakery window.

Pigeons nestle in the old city wall - it's worth clicking on the photo to see how many there are!

Pastis de la Diada - adorned with the Catalonian flag

I was pretty happy with my first National Catalonia Day. Next year, I want to go to some of the ceremonial places that I didn't get to this year.


*For my sake, as well as for everyone else who reads this blog, I'm now only going to refer to this region as Catalonia which is the Catalan name for it.